Strip the insulation off a length of stranded hookup wire (16–22 AWG). Unravel the braided shield or simply flatten the stranded core. Dip the bare copper in rosin flux (paste or liquid). Apply your soldering iron to the joint and touch this makeshift wick to the molten solder.
Let’s face it: half the fun of amateur radio is the tinkering. We love solving the little problems—the RF in the shack, the cable mess behind the desk, the soldering iron that’s never hot when you need it. Here’s a fresh batch of hints and kinks to save you time, money, and frustration. The problem: You slip a ferrite bead over a coax cable, but it rattles around and slides right off the bend. Not effective.
Zero adhesive residue. Removes cleanly. UV and weatherproof for years. Temperature range: -60°F to +500°F. One roll seals dozens of connectors. Use it over electrical tape, not under. 5. The Ruler-on-the-Mast Trick (Antenna Matching) The problem: You’re tuning a 1/4-wave ground plane or a J-pole. You slide the radiator up and down, mark it with a Sharpie, lower the mast, adjust, raise again… repeat.
Use a second mat as a soldering iron rest when traveling. The iron tip won’t burn it, and it won’t slide off the table. A Final Word The best kink is the one you discover yourself. Keep a small notebook in your shack (or a digital note) and write down every “that worked well” or “that was stupid, don’t do it again.” New- Hints and Kinks for the Radio Amateur
Remove the knob. Drip 2–3 drops of isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher) into the shaft opening. Rotate the pot back and forth fully 20–30 times. Let it dry 5 minutes. Then add one tiny drop of lightweight machine oil (sewing machine oil or even 3-in-1) to the same spot. Rotate again 10 times.
WD-40 leaves a residue that attracts dust. This alcohol+oil method flushes oxidation then leaves a clean, thin lubricant film. 7. The "No-Drill" Ground Bus for a Metal Desk The problem: Your station ground needs a common bus bar, but you don’t want to drill into your nice metal desk or filing cabinet.
Not always, but in a pinch, stranded 18-gauge wire soaked in flux outperforms no wick at all. Keep a 6" piece pre-fluxed in a tiny ziplock bag in your go-kit. 3. The "Eyeglass" SMA Wrench (Free & Perfect) The problem: SMA connectors need to be finger tight plus 1/8 turn . Overtighten, and you’ll snap the center pin or ruin the female receptacle (especially on cheap HTs or SDR dongles). Strip the insulation off a length of stranded
Use a metal eyeglass repair screwdriver (the flat kind that comes in those little keychain kits). The tip is exactly the right width to fit into the two holes of a standard knurled SMA plug. Insert the tip into one hole and use it as a lever for that final gentle snug.
The tape fills the air gap and provides friction. The bead stays exactly where you put it—even on vertical runs—and the improved surface contact actually increases common-mode impedance. 2. Instant Solder Wick (When You’re Out) The problem: You need to desolder a through-hole component. The last piece of solder wick vanished months ago.
73, and may your SWR be low and your soldering iron hot. Do you have a kink to share? Send it to your club newsletter or post it on QRZ—that’s how our tradition stays alive. Apply your soldering iron to the joint and
Use vulcanizing silicone tape (often sold as "rescue tape" or "self-fusing silicone tape"). It’s about $8–10 per roll. Stretch it 100% as you wrap—it fuses to itself into a solid rubber sleeve.
Loosen the element set screw. Slide the element until it touches the clamp. Tighten. Check SWR. Move clamp up or down by measured inches. No more lowering the mast 15 times. 6. Cleaning Potentiometers Without Deoxit (Field Hack) The problem: Scratchy volume or tone control on your vintage receiver, and you’re out of contact cleaner.
Tighten until it stops with light finger force, then use the screwdriver for no more than 10 degrees of additional rotation. 4. Cheap Coax Seal That Doesn’t Turn to Gum The problem: High-end coax sealing tape (Coax-Seal, etc.) works great, but it’s expensive and gets sticky-messy in heat.
By WB2FAS (In the spirit of the original QST column)
Stick a metal ruler (12" or 24") directly to the fiberglass or wooden mast using double-sided foam tape, aligned vertically with the antenna element. Use a small spring clamp or a plastic clothespin on the ruler as a temporary stop.